Last Urban Barter Market in Africa; Togoville

Introduction

Cash transactions have become generalised across the African continent. In places of business, from the tiniest hamlets to the major metropolises, people are always expected to have cash for the goods or services that they want to purchase.

In rural areas, where people have closer ties to each other, many exchanges remain non-cash based. It is common for families to exchange food for labour for example. When someone has a project that requires a great deal of labour (building a house, tilling the land), they invite the entire village, and people come to work knowing that the only thing they expect to receive is a good lunch. Certainly, the food in itself is not necessarily the reward that they seek but rather the idea that when it is time to work their own land, they can prepare a big meal and invite the entire village as well. Such arrangements mean that it is not only those who can afford a hundred labourers’ wages that can have big farms.

In many urban centres, cooperative arrangements of this type have long since faded away. It is standard for everything to be paid for in cash. Although there are some digital swapping applications that have many subscribers, Africa has become an almost exclusively cash society.

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The Togoville barter market

The city of Togoville in the Republic of Togo stands out as the only major urban centre with a market that operates entirely on a barter system. Togolese say that barter has always been part of their lives. It is perhaps for this reason that it has survived this long and continues to grow from strength to strength even as the powerful force of capitalism takes hold in the society.

Every Wednesday, people from riverine communities and others from farming neighbourhoods in more upland areas converge on the market with different crops and proteins that they have produced themselves. They exchange what they have brought for other food items that they need. Fishermen bring different types of fish, which they exchange for meat or leafy greens. Those who practice animal husbandry bring pork, mutton, chicken, beef or some other type of meat and exchange it for yams, vegetables or starch. Some farmers bring fresh cassava or cassava flour (garri) and exchange it for smoked catfish. Throughout the day, especially the morning hours, the market is a hive of activity. There are thousands of people all haggling and exchanging away.

Everything can be exchanged for everything and negotiations are quick and cordial. One just need to walk to someone who has what they want and request an exchange. If the person on the other side is interested, the item that has to be exchanged is put in a bowl and handed over. The other person assesses it with a quick glance and in turn, they hand over a bowl of what they are selling. The transaction ends there, or if necessary, the items in the bowl could be increased or reduced until both parties come to an agreement.

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Honesty in transactions

The produce and all other items in the market are always fresh. The space is a kaleidoscope of colours, with dark purple aubergines, orange carrots, speckled beans, bright deep red tomatoes, orange edible berries, rich dark green leaves, pale green and red cabbage. There are tubers: cassava, yams, cocoyam, sweet potatoes and potatoes. There are different types of cassava products from beautiful yellow garri (cassava flour) to fermented cassava fufu. Also available are all kinds of grain: corn, millet, sorghum, beans, rice and fonio. There is no cheating: people bring the same quality of commodity that they expect to receive.

The older traders in the market are in their seventies, so there is longevity and a lot of institutional memory around barter. Many of them have introduced their children and their grandchildren to barter. Visibly young people are everywhere, exchanging away. For visitors, there may obviously be a temptation to ask the younger traders what first attracted them to the market. However, it is not too hard to see why it is so easy to fall in love with the Togolese barter market. The energy, camaraderie and bonds between the people as well as their desire to keep their families and community buzzing, healthy and strong is all the motivation they need.

Besides the exchange of food commodities, visitors also use the market as an opportunity to meet up with friend and catch up on the latest gossip. This certainly helps with the overall spirit of communalism and conviviality that keep the market going.

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A royal seal of approval

According to His Royal Highness King Mlapa VI of Togoville, the Togovillois (inhabitants of Togoville) have always had barter markets. The main Togoville barter market itself has been on its present site for about thirty years. It had been on its previous site for much longer. King Mlapa VI adds that this long culture of barter is one of the reasons why activities in the barter market are always cordial and respectful.

Togovillois are often invited to global gatherings to share their experiences on how barter works. Obviously, with the fourth crisis of capitalism, and the growing need for post-growth alternatives, this interest is only going to grow. It is a blessing that, as market capitalism took hold in their country, Togovillois refused to give up their barter market. Now, the world can go to them to see how these systems really work.  

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